Homeowners often focus on color and shingle style, then discover the fine print after the contract is signed. Materials make or break a roof’s performance. The right choices shed water, manage heat, hold fast in wind, resist algae, and age predictably. The wrong mix looks fine at first, then starts curling, streaking, or leaking a few winters later. A good roofer welcomes pointed questions about materials because strong specifications protect both of you. Here is how to interview a roofing contractor about the products going on your house, what the answers mean, and where the hidden trade‑offs live.
Start with the roof as a system, not just a shingle
An effective roof installation is a layered system that works as a whole. Shingles or panels are the visible skin, but longevity depends on everything beneath and around them. Ask the roofing company to walk you through their material stack from the framing up. You want to hear a coherent sequence that includes decking, underlayment, ice barriers, flashing metals, ventilation components, fasteners, and gutters. If the conversation starts and ends with “we use a quality architectural shingle,” you are missing 70 percent of the story.
I learned this early while consulting on storm restorations along the Gulf Coast. Two homes sat side by side, both reroofed after the same hurricane with the same shingle brand. Three years later one roof still looked sharp, the other had lifted tabs and water stains in the soffits. The difference came down to three things the better roofer specified up front: closed‑cut metal valleys instead of woven shingle valleys, a fully adhered ice and water barrier from eave to at least 2 feet past the warm wall, and stainless fasteners at ridge vents. Small choices, big outcomes.
Which shingle or panel, and why that specific product line?
If you are considering asphalt shingles, press for the exact manufacturer and line, not just “architectural” or “50‑year.” Product lines vary in base mat weight, asphalt formulation, granule quality, and nailing zone design. A heavier shingle with a reinforced nail zone will forgive a few nails that land close to the edge during installation. Ask for data such as weight per square and the listed ASTM standards (for example, D3462 for fiberglass shingles) to ground the comparison. On metal, the specifics matter even more: steel versus aluminum, gauge or thickness, panel profile, and the paint system, commonly PVDF (Kynar 500) or SMP.
Take winds as an example. A contractor may claim a 130 mph wind warranty, which is common for top lines. The fine print usually requires using matching starter strips, cap shingles, and installation within certain temperature ranges, plus a required number of nails per shingle. If your roofer is mixing brands or skipping components, the headline rating becomes theoretical. For metal, coastal homes should avoid bare steel at the cut edges. Galvalume coatings help, but salt spray still wins over time. Aluminum panels with a PVDF finish last better near brine, though they cost more and can dent more easily from large hail.
Clay tile, concrete tile, and slate each require questions about weight and attachment. Genuine slate varies widely. Vermont unfading green or gray slate can last 75 to 150 years with correct copper flashing, while soft imports may shed layers in a decade if exposed to freeze‑thaw cycles. A responsible roofer will know the quarry, the thickness, and the installation method appropriate for your pitch and climate.
What is your underlayment strategy for this roof and climate?
Underlayment is your last line of defense under the primary covering. In hot climates with asphalt shingles, synthetic underlayments resist wrinkle and heat better than traditional 15‑ or 30‑pound felt, and they hold fasteners more reliably during installation. In cold regions, a self‑adhered ice and water shield at eaves and in valleys keeps meltwater from backing up under the shingles. The International Residential Code typically calls for the barrier to extend from the eave to at least 24 inches inside the heated wall line, though local amendments vary.
Not all self‑adhered membranes behave the same. Rubberized asphalt sticks aggressively but can creep under constant heat. Hybrid or butyl‑based products resist high temperatures better, which matters on low‑slope south‑facing roofs or under dark metal. Ask the roofing company which specific membrane they use where, and why. The thoughtful answer matches product to risk: high‑temperature ice barrier in metal valleys, full‑coverage self‑adhered membranes on very low slopes, lighter synthetics on steeper, well‑vented decks.
I have torn off roofs where the shingles still looked decent at 12 years, but the felt below had turned brittle and split around fasteners. The homeowner had ongoing leaks at a dormer pinch point every wind‑driven rain. A $200 upgrade to a higher temperature‑rated underlayment at that one location would have changed that story.
How are you handling ventilation, and what materials support it?
Roofs fail quietly from the inside when heat and moisture build in the attic. Poor ventilation cooks asphalt, drives ice dams, and invites mold. You want balanced intake at the eaves and exhaust at or near the ridge, with clear airflow paths. Materials drive this: continuous perforated soffit systems, baffles that hold insulation off the roof deck, and ridge vents that use woven or polystyrene cores protected by matching cap shingles or metal ridge caps.
Press for numbers, not generalities. Most roof assemblies target roughly 1 square foot of net free ventilation area per 300 square feet of attic floor when a balanced system with a vapor retarder is used, but local codes and building science can tilt that up or down. The key is a balance between intake and exhaust. If a roofer proposes a power fan without increasing soffit intake, that fan may depressurize the attic and pull conditioned air from the house. For metal roofs over solid decking, confirm a ventilated air space or radiant barrier strategy to break heat loading. For cathedral ceilings, ask how they will keep the baffle channel continuous at hips and valleys.
Materials matter at the ridge. Cheap plastic vent rolls get brittle under UV and crack under foot. Higher grade ridge vents use thicker plastics, woven cores, or metal housings that hold up to time and snow load. If you live where drifting snow is common, ask about baffle design that limits wind‑blown snow intrusion, and how cap materials are fastened.
What fasteners will you use, and are they matched to materials and environment?
Fasteners are unsung heroes. Shingle roofs typically use ring‑shank nails, hot‑dipped galvanized or stainless depending on exposure. Electro‑galvanized nails are tempting because they load smoothly in guns, but they rust faster. In coastal zones or near industrial pollution, stainless nails extend life. Ask the roofing contractor to specify nail type, coating, and length. In dense sheathing like 5/8‑inch plywood, you want enough penetration to secure a holding grip, usually nails that penetrate the deck by at least 3/4 inch.
Metal roofs bring more nuance. A quality system uses gasketed screws with UV‑resistant washers, often EPDM. Lesser screws use neoprene that degrades and leaks. Hidden fastener standing seam systems minimize penetrations on the weather surface, but clips, clip spacing, and allowance for thermal movement must match panel expansion. Aluminum expands more than steel, and long panels need slotted clips or floating systems so they do not oil‑can or tear screws in heat cycles. If your roofer cannot discuss clip style and spacing in inches or feet, they may not do enough metal to trust your project with them.
How will you handle flashing, and which metals and membranes back it up?
Flashing is where roofs win or lose. Every transition needs attention: chimneys, walls, skylights, valleys, penetrations, and roof‑to‑deck interfaces at porches. You are listening for a plan that relies on metal where possible, with sealants as secondary measures, not the other way around. Step flashing at wall intersections should be individual pieces lapped with the shingle courses, not continuous L flashing tucked behind siding and smeared with caulk. Chimneys deserve saddle crickets and two‑part flashing: base flashing set under the shingle course and counterflashing cut into the mortar joint.
As for metals, aluminum is fine in many places but reacts with some cementitious sidings and is not a friend to alkaline masonry. Galvanized steel holds shape but eventually loses zinc and rusts, especially if cut edges are exposed. In contact with treated lumber, even galvanization degrades. Copper costs more but matches the life of slate and tile, and resists corrosion at chimneys. On coastal homes, stainless makes sense at roof‑to‑wall high splash areas. Ask about gauge, not just metal type. A valley flashing in 26 gauge steel bends easily but dents and creases; 24 gauge keeps its line and sheds water predictably.
Membrane flashing tapes have a place, especially around skylights and in complex valleys under metal. Butyl tapes stick to more materials and keep grip longer in heat than standard rubberized asphalt tapes. If your roofer proposes exposed mastics or goops as a primary seal on sunny slopes, that is a red flag. Quality sealants still play a role at terminations and laps. Look for high‑grade, UV‑stable formulations, and make sure they are named in your specification.
What is your plan for ice dams, heavy rain, or extreme heat specific to my home?
Every house sets its own traps. Deep eaves that shade the lower roof, cathedral ceilings with minimal insulation, north‑facing valleys that never see sun in winter, or tall walls that dump water onto a short roof run. Materials need to meet those patterns. Under metal or asphalt in heavy snow zones, I like to see a self‑adhered membrane not just at eaves, but also fully lining valleys and wrapping around penetrations well past the uphill side. Rakes benefit from drip edge with a hem that stiffens the metal and directs water into the gutters rather than down the fascia.
For intense heat, lighter colored shingles or “cool roof” rated materials lower attic temperatures by noticeable margins, sometimes 10 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit on peak summer days. Ask the roofer whether your local energy code or utility incentives support cool roof products. If they carry a California Title 24 compliant shingle or a metal panel with a high solar reflectance index, that can help. There is a look trade‑off, since cool granules change the palette. On flat or low‑slope porch tie‑ins, a peel‑and‑stick granular cap sheet or TPO membrane may be smarter than trying to force shingles below their minimum pitch rating. Press for the minimum recommended slope of the proposed material, and a clear answer on what the roofer uses where the pitch gets too low.
Are you proposing a complete manufacturer system, and what warranty does that unlock?
Many roofing manufacturers offer extended warranties if you use their full system: matched underlayments, starter, ridge, vents, and flashings, all installed by a certified roofer. The extended warranty can include labor, tear‑off, and non‑prorated coverage for the first decades. But read the conditions. They usually require attic ventilation to spec, ice barrier where applicable, and proof of registered installation. If your roofing company is mixing brands to save a few hundred dollars, you may fall back to a standard limited warranty that proration eats quickly.
Ask for links to the actual warranty documents and the registration process. A long warranty is not a substitute for quality materials, but it does signal that the components are designed to work together. Some roofers dislike system requirements because they constrain brand choice. I care more that the pieces match than the label, but I do want to see compatibility in fasteners, ventilators, and sealants. If you prefer a mixed specification, have the roofer list each product, the manufacturer, and the rationale.
What is the plan for decking, and how will you address existing conditions?
New shingles over a wavy, spongy deck age poorly. Ask whether the roofer will walk the entire roof and mark soft spots, check for delamination in OSB, or gaps wider than a quarter inch at plank sheathing. If your home has 1x boards with large gaps, synthetic underlayment may telegraph the gaps, and some underlayments require a continuous deck. Installing 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood over planks stiffens the field and gives nails a better bite. It costs more up front, saves headaches later, and often tightens the roof plane so valleys and eaves look crisp.
For cedar or slate tear‑offs, decking often hides surprises. Build in a contingency allowance in the contract for replacing a set number of sheets or square feet of rotten wood at a fixed unit price. Without that, the day‑of change order dance gets tense. The roofing company should state their standard: for example, replace any decking that deflects more than a certain amount under foot or shows visible decay. For low‑slope transitions, ask whether they will taper with foam or wood to improve drainage, and what materials they use for that.
How are gutters, drip edges, and edge metals integrated?
Water follows the path of least resistance. Edge details matter, and they connect the roofer’s work with the gutter company or your existing gutters. Drip edge should tuck under the underlayment at the eaves and over it at the rakes so wind‑driven rain does not creep behind. The hem on quality drip edge adds rigidity and a capillary break. For seamless aluminum gutters, the fascia mount clips must not block the shingle overhang or compress the drip edge. If your home uses half‑round gutters on brackets, confirm the standoff distance so the shingle nose does not drip behind the gutter during heavy rain.
When adding leaf guards, ask for materials compatible with the roof covering. Some guards slip under the shingles, which can void warranties if they break the seal or over‑lift the first course. Others mount to the fascia or lip of the gutter and are safer for shingle seals. On metal roofs, snow bar placement and guard style must be considered together. One winter I watched a 30‑foot snow slide rip newly installed mesh guards clean off a fascia because the roofer and gutter installer never spoke. A five minute materials check and a short snow retention run would have prevented it.
What is your fastener schedule and nailing pattern for this product?
This sounds like a technicality, but it reveals discipline. For asphalt shingles, the correct number of nails per shingle, placed in the nail zone, changes wind resistance and warranty coverage. Valleys require specific treatments: open metal with shingles cut clean and set above the valley centerline, or closed‑cut with shingles crossing and then cut, with each valley nail set well back from the cut line. Woven valleys are cheaper and faster, but they trap debris and wear faster under sliding ice. Hearing a clear description of where nails go and where they avoid tells you your roofer follows manufacturer instructions.
For ridge vents and caps, nails or screws must be long enough to penetrate the deck, not just the ridge board or vent plastic. In high wind zones, additional fasteners at starter strips and rake edges help prevent wind uplift. On metal roofs, the conversation turns to panel layout, clip spacing, and how hemmed edges and concealed cleats reduce fastener exposure at eaves. These details are material decisions as much as labor technique.
How do you address algae, moss, and staining, and what additives or granules are included?
In humid climates, algae streaks show up on light‑colored shingles within a few years unless the shingle includes copper or zinc granules. Many premium lines incorporate a small percentage of algicide in the granule mix that slows growth for 10 to 20 years. Ask if the proposed shingle has this feature and how long it is expected to resist staining. Supplemental methods exist, like zinc or copper strips at ridge lines that wash metal ions down the roof during rain. They help, but only for several feet below the strip and not as a primary plan on complex hip roofs. If your yard is shaded and tree‑covered, a longer algae‑resistant shingle specification makes sense. On metal, smooth panels shed growth better than heavily textured finishes, and color matters less to algae formation than surface chemistry and light.
What is the fire rating and impact rating of the proposed system?
Fire ratings for roof coverings are classified as Class A, B, or C, with Class A offering the highest resistance to flame spread. Most fiberglass asphalt shingles achieve Class A when installed over the proper underlayment and deck. Metal panels over a solid deck with approved underlayment also meet Class A. If you live in a wildfire‑prone area, confirm the complete assembly rating, not just the top layer. Ask if the underlayment contributes to the rating and whether vents include ember‑resistant designs.
Impact resistance is a separate metric, often shown as UL 2218 Class 3 or 4. Class 4 shingles resist hail damage better, and some insurers discount premiums for them. The shingle uses a modified asphalt or reinforced mat to absorb impacts. Be clear that impact resistance does not mean hail proof. Baseball‑size hail will dent almost anything, including heavy gauge metal. But in hail belt regions, Class 4 shingles reduce granule loss and bruising after routine storms. For metal, thicker panels and deeper profiles show dents less, while stone‑coated steel hides small impacts at the cost of a more textured look.
What are the minimum and maximum slope requirements for each material you are proposing?
Every roofing material has a slope range. Most architectural shingles require at least 2:12 pitch with enhanced underlayment and 4:12 for standard underlayment. Below that, you are in low‑slope territory, and membranes like modified bitumen, TPO, or PVC are better suited. Metal varies: standing seam handles low slope down to 1:12 or even 1/4:12 with Roof installation double‑locked seams and continuous sealant, while exposed‑fastener panels usually need 3:12 or more. Tie‑ins between different pitches demand specialized materials at the transition to prevent water from driving back under faster than gravity can carry it away.
I have seen ambitious homeowners insist on shingling a 1.5:12 porch because they liked the look. The roof looked great until the first long rain with a bit of wind. Water tracked under the laps and dripped at the porch beam. The fix required tearing back shingles, installing a self‑adhered membrane, and adding a low‑slope cap sheet. Better to choose the right material from the start and let the design follow the physics.
How will you protect and finish penetrations like pipes, vents, and skylights?
Penetrations punch holes in the best plans. Rubber pipe boots crack under UV within a decade unless they use higher grade EPDM and incorporate a stainless ring. Metal retrofit boots with flexible bases conform to panel ribs on metal roofs and last longer. Skylight brands and models matter. Curb‑mounted, flashed correctly with step and head flashing, outlast deck‑mounted units that rely heavily on gaskets. If you keep an older skylight, have the roofer replace brittle gaskets and flash the curb with metal, not just membrane. For bath and kitchen vents, rigid ducting and proper roof caps prevent condensation and grease leaks into the roof assembly.
Ask the roofer if they use manufacturer‑specific flashings that match the pipe diameter and the roof profile. A well‑fitted boot, fastened and sealed according to instructions, beats a universal boot smeared with mastic. Also confirm how they handle satellite dish relocations. Dishes should be remounted on a wall or fascia bracket where possible, not back on your new shingles.
What are the expected lifespans, and how do the materials actually age in our region?
Marketing sheets love round numbers. In the field, the spread is wider. Architectural asphalt shingles that advertise 30 to 50 years commonly deliver 18 to 30 years in the Midwest and 12 to 25 years in the Southeast sun, with local variables like roof color, ventilation, and tree cover moving the needle. Metal standing seam often reaches 40 to 60 years if the paint finish is PVDF and fasteners and clips are specified correctly. Concrete tile can go 40 to 75 years, but underlayment beneath tile in hot, dry climates often needs replacement at 20 to 30 years even when tiles look fine.
Ask for the roofer’s local portfolio and addresses that are five, ten, and fifteen years old with the same material. Drive by and look. Granule loss at gutters, lifted tabs on rakes, and mismatched touch‑up paint on metal tell you how the materials behave where you live. Photographs in a brochure never show the dust, pollen, and sap your roof will see every season.
What maintenance does this material mix need, and what can void coverage?
Few roofs are truly set‑and‑forget. Annual or biennial inspections catch sealant failures at flashings, popped nails, and critter damage at vents. Some warranties require documented maintenance. Clarify this with the roofing contractor and ask what materials they use for maintenance. On asphalt roofs, dabbing asphalt mastic on a crack might be a stopgap, but it bakes and shrinks. A better approach uses a compatible flashing tape under the shingle and reseals above with a UV‑stable product.
Pressure washing asphalt shingles strips granules and shortens life. If algae bothers you, use low‑pressure chemical cleaning with products labeled for shingles and rinse gently. Metal panels can be washed with mild soaps, avoiding abrasive brushes that scratch finishes and hasten corrosion at cut edges. Hanging holiday decorations with nails through shingles is a common coverage killer. So is installing a new vent or solar mount without proper flashing. Ask your roofer how they coordinate with solar installers and what flashing kits they specify for future penetrations.
Can you provide a written materials schedule and cut sheets with brand, line, and model numbers?
Oral promises fade. A materials schedule lists every component and makes it enforceable. It should include the roofing, underlayment types and locations, ice and water barrier extents, nail or screw types and coatings, ridge vent product, flashing metals and gauges, drip edge profile, pipe boot models, skylight brands, and any specialty membranes at low‑slope tie‑ins. Attach manufacturer cut sheets or data pages. This helps you compare bids apples to apples and avoids the bait‑and‑switch of spec’ing a premium line, then delivering a house brand that looks similar on the pallet.
I had a client swap out a single line item on the schedule, upgrading valley metal from painted aluminum to 24 gauge galvanized with a baked finish. The price bump was modest. Five winters later, heavy ice flow scoured those valleys, and the heavier metal still looked crisp. The neighbor with thin aluminum valleys showed ripples and paint loss. Paperwork shaped outcomes.
What is your approach to roof replacement versus roof repair when materials are near end of life?
Sometimes you call a roofer for roof repair and end up discussing a full roof replacement. Materials drive that decision. If the shingles are brittle and granule‑bare, repairs often tear the surrounding field and spread the damage. If the base mat still has flex, a targeted repair with correct shingles and woven matching granules can last several years. Ask the roofer to show you a sample of the proposed repair shingle beside your existing. Color match matters to aesthetics, but the mat weight and thickness matter to water flow at the seam.
On metal, isolated fastener back‑outs and minor seam leaks are often repairable with upgraded fasteners, new washers, and sealant where specified, provided the paint and substrate remain intact. If oxidation is widespread and fastener heads are rusting through, patching chases problems. A competent roofing company will explain where the line sits and what materials make a repair trustworthy.
A short, practical checklist you can bring to your meeting
- Which exact product lines are you proposing, and why for this roof and climate? What underlayments and ice barriers go where, and what are their temperature ratings? How will you ventilate the roof, and what materials create balanced intake and exhaust? What flashing metals and gauges will you use at valleys, walls, and chimneys? Which fasteners, coatings, and patterns match the materials and exposure?
Reading between the lines when a roofer answers
After a dozen or so of these conversations, patterns emerge. Strong roofers use manufacturer names comfortably, cite slope limits without looking them up, and discuss underlayment by type and temperature rating. They do not default to sealants as primary defenses. They talk about ventilation as a materials problem, not just a hole cut at the ridge. They are comfortable declining to use the wrong material in the wrong spot, even if it costs them the job.
If your prospective roofer waves off materials questions with assurances that “we have always done it this way,” move on. If a roofing company brings sample boards, fasteners, ridge vents, and cut pieces of flashing to your kitchen table, that is a sign they think in real components. You will pay a premium for that mindset. In my experience, that premium often buys you an extra decade of roof life, fewer disruptions, and fewer calls to a gutter company or service tech during storm season.
The roof over your head is not just shingles in a color you like. It is a set of interlocking materials chosen for the way water moves, the way heat builds and escapes, and the way wind tests edges and laps. Ask good questions. Listen for specifics. Put the answers in writing. A careful specification today saves you from frantic tarps and wet drywall later, and it gives your roofer a clear target to hit during installation. That is how you turn a roof installation into a durable investment rather than a gamble.
<!DOCTYPE html> 3 Kings Roofing and Construction | Roofing Contractor in Fishers, IN
3 Kings Roofing and Construction
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Name: 3 Kings Roofing and Construction
Address: 14074 Trade Center Dr Ste 1500, Fishers, IN 46038, United States
Phone: (317) 900-4336
Website: https://3kingsroofingandgutters.com/
Email: [email protected]
Hours:
Monday – Friday: 7:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Saturday: 7:00 AM – 1:00 PM
Sunday: Closed
Plus Code: XXRV+CH Fishers, Indiana
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https://3kingsroofingandgutters.com/3 Kings Roofing and Construction provides professional roofing services in Fishers and the greater Indianapolis area offering residential roof replacement for homeowners and businesses.
Homeowners in Fishers and Indianapolis rely on 3 Kings Roofing and Construction for affordable roofing, gutter, and exterior services.
Their team handles roof inspections, full replacements, siding, and gutter systems with a trusted approach to customer service.
Reach 3 Kings Roofing and Construction at (317) 900-4336 for storm damage inspections and visit https://3kingsroofingandgutters.com/ for more information.
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Popular Questions About 3 Kings Roofing and Construction
What services does 3 Kings Roofing and Construction provide?
They provide residential and commercial roofing, roof replacements, roof repairs, gutter installation, and exterior restoration services throughout Fishers and the Indianapolis metro area.
Where is 3 Kings Roofing and Construction located?
The business is located at 14074 Trade Center Dr Ste 1500, Fishers, IN 46038, United States.
What areas do they serve?
They serve Fishers, Indianapolis, Carmel, Noblesville, Greenwood, and surrounding Central Indiana communities.
Are they experienced with storm damage roofing claims?
Yes, they assist homeowners with storm damage inspections, insurance claim documentation, and full roof restoration services.
How can I request a roofing estimate?
You can call (317) 900-4336 or visit https://3kingsroofingandgutters.com/ to schedule a free estimate.
How do I contact 3 Kings Roofing and Construction?
Phone: (317) 900-4336 Website: https://3kingsroofingandgutters.com/
Landmarks Near Fishers, Indiana
- Conner Prairie Interactive History Park – A popular historical attraction in Fishers offering immersive exhibits and community events.
- Ruoff Music Center – A major outdoor concert venue drawing visitors from across Indiana.
- Topgolf Fishers – Entertainment and golf venue near the business location.
- Hamilton Town Center – Retail and dining destination serving the Fishers and Noblesville communities.
- Indianapolis Motor Speedway – Iconic racing landmark located within the greater Indianapolis area.
- The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis – One of the largest children’s museums in the world, located nearby in Indianapolis.
- Geist Reservoir – Popular recreational lake serving the Fishers and northeast Indianapolis area.